By Andrew Z. Galarneau
Pumpernick N’ Pastry, one of Buffalo’s last great traditional bakeries, is closing its Kaisertown store on July 20.
The Kaisertown bakery, famed for its bread, cakes, cookies, paczki and more, will end its 40-year history with New York State taxes as one culprit. Another cause was the big supermarkets and warehouse chains shouldering their way into the bakery business.
“After 40 years of serving the community Pumpernick N Pastry Shoppe will be turning off the lights for good at the end of business on July 20, 2013. It has been a great run and like all good things must come to an end. If you want to order last minute goodies you can do so up until July 19th noon. Please make sure to call us a day ahead as we have limited inventory right now due to Summer being traditionally slow. Thank you for your support and well wishes!!!”
Ben Tsujimoto of Buffalo.com has more background here.
In 2004, Jen Aronoff offered Buffalo News readers this snapshot of the challenges facing Pumpernick:
All pastries are not created equal. Marvin and Norma Linde can tell you that.
They also know, and can show you, that pies taste best made with real whipped cream, that an oven needs steam in order to produce good bread crust, and that nothing puts a smile on a child's face like a free cookie.
They have spent most of their lives in the bakery business. Since 1974, they have owned Pumpernick n' Pastry bakery in Kaisertown, and today they run it with the help of four of their children, two in-laws and 46 other employees.
During their 54 years of marriage, the Lindes have seen bakeries come and go. Mostly, they have seen them go. "On Clinton (Street), there used to be five or six bakeries over the years, and I'm the only one left," says Marvin. "It's tough. It's a dying breed."
Buffalo was once bursting with bakeries, and they reflected the heritage of those who migrated to the city, especially from Poland, Italy and Germany.
The 1940 Buffalo city directory lists more than 220 bakers; by 1970, that number had dropped by 100. Today's phone book lists around 70, excluding supermarkets and national chains.
Even more are gone today. I tried to find a phone book to count, but can’t remember the last one I saw.
taggedFood and Drink