By Andrew Z. Galarneau
Chinese cooks living in India have developed a distinct set of dishes that merge the two great culinary traditions in delicious ways. Paneer stir-fried in garlic sauce, chicken with fresh chiles and soy sauce, and fried shrimp fritters in red chile "Manchurian" sauce are classic examples of what is often called Hakka cuisine.
Until Shalimar Garden (3192 Sheridan Drive, Amherst, 835-0700) opened recently, you could find Manchurian dishes here and there, but Shalimar, which I reviewed in today's Buffalo News, has more than 20 Hakka dishes.
(Toronto's Danforth Dragon is an excellent choice if you're in the Great White North. Do not miss the pakoras, available in chicken, fish or shrimp, 10 for $12.)
If you enjoy lamb, I submit Shalimar's Kashmiri Rogan Josh to your attention. It was the most deeply flavored lamb curry I have had in recent memory. The bone-in pieces make you eat slowly, but I didn't mind.
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