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Elevating the ordinary: Tabree restaurant earns top rating by making familiar dishes better

 

Tabree 018

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Every restaurant in town has a chocolate dessert.

Many are tortes, that is, a later of creamy dense chocolate on a crust of some kind. I have eaten a horde of tortes in the execution of my professional duties.

I can't say the one at Tabree is the best in town, even though I gave the restaurant a 10, my top score, in today's review in The Buffalo News. There are a lot of contenders I haven't tried. 

Trust me on this: This one was really, really good. Dark and deep in flavor, the ganache melted on your tongue, like butter but not cloying with fat. Not too sweet.

Oh but the crust. It was salty, with loads of aggressively toasted hazelnut crunch. With the salt flakes on top that crackle in your teeth, the whole combination was pretty much my platonic ideal for chocolate love. 

It's $10, and worth it. Tabree Chef Bruce Wieszala, who makes the three desserts on offer, told me he's really more of a savory guy.

Of course, that's why you take the trouble to go to the best restaurants. Consistency. Even the stuff the chef isn't proud of is pretty damn good. 

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Food and Drink
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