By Andrew Z. Galarneau
Just in time for Valentine's Day, Saveur Magazine's March issue has published a two-page mash note to the peculiar confectionary skills of Buffalo's candymakers.
"In Buffalo, chocolatiers concoct their own marshmallow sauce, understand the nuances of caramel, and temper cocoa butter to a luxurious smoothness," say veteran food writers Jane and Michael Stern.
The Sterns have been chronicling the glories of the American table since 1977, when "Roadfood," their seminal celebration of off-the-Interstate dining, was first published. So when they say Buffalo's sponge candy culture is unique, I am inclined to believe them.
"While variations of sponge candy can be found from London to the Pacific Northwest, nobody else uses the care employed by Buffalo's top candymakers," the Sterns write. They credit the influence of Greek immigrant candymakers, who perfected recipes from the old country in the New World.
"We respect the sponge," Dean Tassy of Alethea's tells them.
Mentioned: Alethea's, King Condrell's, Mike's on Clinton Street, Nick Charlap's and Sweet's on the Hill in West Seneca.
Another sweet Buffalo specialty getting a much-deserved shout-out: The Charlie Chaplin, homemade marshmallow surrounded by coconut and cashew-studded chocolate.
taggedFood and Drink