By Andrew Z. Galarneau
Peter Meehan, a food writer and cookbook co-author with top Manhattan chef David Chang, also plays in a band called Spectre Folk. That brought him to Buffalo in October, when his band opened for Lee Ranaldo & the Dust.
One of Meehan's other gigs is as an editor of Lucky Peach, the hippest food publication in the nation, developed by Chang and Meehan. So it was a delight to open the Winter 2014 edition, devoted to street food, and see Meehan's appreciation for two Buffalo favorites.
All right, Schwabl's is in West Seneca. Whatever. Meehan wrote:
I think Buffalonians are tired of hearing the drum beaten for Schwabl's, which has operated in one form or another since 1837. But it is the only weck parlor that I visited that offered a range of beef doneness, and the only place where the gravy seemed like it was a byproduct of beef cookery, not of industrial manufacture.
The other place he mentions is the Old Pink (formally Allen Street Bar & Grill), and its standout sandwiches, both steak and bologna.
The steaks were cooked to temp, perfectly. The bologna was immaculately immolated. The sandwiches were late-night knockouts, made and served with evident care.
So yeah, you weren't the only one to notice.
It's never going to be online. because Lucky Peach doesn't do that. Issues of the magazine are $12, and well worth it, by the way.
taggedFood and Drink