By Andrew Z. Galarneau
In my reporting for stories around the 50th anniversary of the Buffalo chicken wing, I was surprised by how many self-professed wing experts had never read the piece I consider the ur-text of wing scholarship.
Published in 1980, "An Attempt to Compile a Short History of the Buffalo Chicken Wing," by New Yorker writer Calvin Trillin, is still essential reading for all students of the spicy, crispy chicken digit.
Even then, Trillin found that the precise circumstances of its appearance at the Anchor Bar were elusive.
"Fortunately, the actual moment that Buffalo chicken wings were invented has been described by Frank Bellissimo and his son, Dom, with the sort of rich detail that any historian would value; unfortunately, they use different details."
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