By Andrew Z. Galarneau
I'm not saying it's just a Buffalo thing, but there's a real cargo cult streak among Buffalo eaters. Many - if not most - diners thrill to news of a place where you can lug away as much as you eat.
At BuffaloEats.org, Park Country Club Executive Chef James Roberts stepped up to the mic last week, and he had something to ask us:
"Do you really think bigger is better? Wouldn’t you rather have a smaller piece of something remarkable? And who needs 19 ounces of fish for dinner, especially 19 ounces of crap fish? Why are we so enthralled by size?"
Roberts, a veteran chef who gave a 2012 TEDxBuffalo talk on mentoring, aimed part of his screed at young cooks, too.
"While you may think that blueberry gorgonzola, port wine, pecan, demi glace, butter sauce would be AMAZEBALLS on your pork chop with roasted brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes, it’s not. It might—and that’s a BIG might—be edible, but for how many bites after the first one? After that, your palate is so blown out and overtaken by your brilliant concoction of flavors that you wouldn’t know if your sweet potatoes were made with paper pulp."
Roberts argues for restraint, finesse, and focus on quality over quantity. If the phrase "hangs off your plate" ever convinced you to visit a restaurant, give Roberts a few minutes and read his piece.
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