Skip to primary navigation Skip to main content

Game changers: 5 cookbooks that helped Andrew Galarneau learn how to cook

TheJoyOfCooking 1975 edition Cover

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Today's story "Cookbooks as Textbooks," which explores the ways certain volumes expand the boundaries of what's possible in your kitchen, got me thinking. I have more cookbooks than I can count, but which ones added real range to my menu?

Here's my answers, from the 1975 edition of "Joy of Cooking" to "Sundays at Moosewood," a vegetarian cookbook with international range.



Starters: At Paradise Island, Tonawanda Jamaican restaurant, braised oxtails mom would love

Paradise island 022

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

A new Jamaican restaurant has opened at 244 Niagara Falls Blvd., formerly Negril One Stop.

It's called Paradise Island (259-8440), and it turned the lights on about four weeks ago. 

I went in for some takeout and the tables were empty. Someone's been working on the place though, and it's been spruced up considerably.

The Malamute, bar near Cobblestone District, to become Ballyhoo, fine cocktail site

The Malamute by Sharon Cantillon

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

A classic blue-collar bar near the Cobblestone District could have new life as a classy cocktail stop.

The Malamute, 211 South Park Ave., is on the way to becoming Ballyhoo.

Timothy Stevens is a Buffalo native who made his career in the San Diego craft cocktail scene. He came back and helped revamp Hutch’s bar while looking for his own place.

He’s opened a half dozen bars and restaurants on the West Coast, but this is his first place. He’ll be offering fine cocktails and craft beer, and a menu that’s a way off, but will include sausage. He’s gutting the place and hopes to be open by September. 


Presto restaurant on Allen St. aims to offer fast, healthy food in former Cafe 59 space

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Presto aims to open by the third week of May in the former Cafe 59 space, 57 Allen St.

It’ll be a “comfort food bistro” with salads, sandwiches and seasonal dinner entrees, said Lucille Altieri, who’s opening the place with Janelle Dubenion, a former Globe Market manager.

It’ll serve lunch, dinner and deliver, with about 50 seats. No alcohol. As the name might suggest, “we’ll get it to you quickly, whether it’s to your table or your door,” said Altieri, a former cook at Coco.


Here's three places in Buffalo where you can get a mint julep on Derby Day

Mint julep at Gordon's Bar

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Here's three places where you can watch the Kentucky Derby while sippin' on a sweet cocktail of bourbon and mint.

Gordon's Bar, 2263 Delaware Ave. For $5, a julep made with Bulleit bourbon, and you get to keep the promotional cup, shown above. (While supplies last.) There is an Off-Track Betting parlor a block away, on the other side of Delaware Ave., if you're feeling lucky.

Mes Que, 1420 Hertel Ave. The julep here will be made with Bulleit bourbon too, and you get to keep the cup. (Again, while supplies last.)

Duke's Bohemian Grove Bar, 253 Allen St. No promotional cups here. But they do have a bartender from Lexington, Kentucky, who will muddle your mint.

EDITED TO ADD: Not in Buffalo, but Craft Tap House, 701 Main St., East Aurora, is serving mint juleps this weekend.

Photo: Gordon's Bar


Chef Edward Forster bringing creativity to Blood and Sand menu when it opens on Franklin St

Edward Forster by Robert Kirkham - The Buffalo News

by Andrew Z. Galarneau

Edward Forster will be the executive chef at Blood and Sand, shaping a market-driven menu of creative food priced to become a regular part of diners’ lives.

That’s his goal, anyway. Forster will be a partner in the venture, which is aiming for a mid-June opening at 333 Franklin St. He joins ace mixologist Jon Karel in the venture, with Joshua and Jenna Miles, of Rochester’s The Revelry.

“We want to make a place where you feel at home, with unparalleled cocktails and food, and an energetic experience,” Miles said. “We are creating a place where, six days a week, you know you got a place that’s the pinnacle, where you want to go for cocktails and food.” Dishes should be $20 or under, except dishes big enough to serve multiple people, Miles said.

By the time Blood and Sand opens in mid-June or thereabouts, Forster will have a core of regular dishes – in small plates, large plates and group plates – ready to go. Then there will be the specials, inspired by the best ingredients he can find, Forster said.

Don’t expect him to lead a local food cult, though. “I want to use the best products we can get,” he said. “It’s not a movement, it’s not a fad, it’s just easier and tastes better. As far as our restaurant goes, we’re going to use those things because they taste good, not because it looks good on a menu, or increases guests’ perception. It’s all about flavor and being responsible.”

Forster has worked in some of the best kitchens in the country. He was the chef at Mike A’s at the Lafayette when I gave it 10 of 10 plates last year. Blood and Sand’s menu will be his to shape from the ground up.

He sketched out a few examples.  A tartine, or open-faced sandwich, of rabbit terrine, Armagnac- braised apricot, pistachios, grainy mustard, goat cheese and arugula. Lots of his dishes have an alcoholic beverage used for flavor, he said, though not for any alcohol content.

Forster said he was looking to use local ingredients whenever practical, like a small plate of Oles Farm carrots with spruce bitters, orange, harissa, Cardamaro streusel, and spruce tips. Yes, from a spruce tree. Forster makes his own bitters, too, so expect to see those show up in multiple guises.

Big plates for sharing between two, four or more people will also be part of the plan, Forster said. That aims to feed into the communal aspect of the meals served there, and allow for a different sort of focus in the kitchen. An example might whole fluke with crispy capers, brown butter lemon purée, and limoncello-glazed baby wax beans. 


The Hatch to feature full bar, fresh upgraded cocktails, craft beer when it opens this month

The hatch by the buffalo news

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

The Hatch plans to add a full bar when it reopens this month, aiming to deliver cocktails crafted with fresh ingredients plus a craft beer selection.

Construction is under way and the opening target is May 18, said Jason Briandi, a consultant working for AcQua Restaurant & Banquets, the new operator.

Besides the expanded drink menu, “The bones of it will be the same,” Briandi said. “It’ll have an emphasis on fresh ingredients, fast, friendly service, with summer themed cocktails, hand pressed juices, house squeezed purees.”

On the food front, it’ll still be grilled hot dogs and burgers at the fore, plus wraps and salads, made to order or ready-to-grab. Hand-cut fries, regular and sweet potato. The ice cream stand opens Saturday, May 3, he said.

Photo: John Hickey / The Buffalo News


Food Truck Tuesdays at Larkinville, drawing up to 30 vendors, opens season May 6

Housemade mortadella sandwich with cheese dip from Black Market Food Truck


By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Food Truck Tuesdays at Larkinville was such a hit last summer that it's scheduled for six months this year, at the downtown music-drinking-eating hangout hub at 745 Seneca St.

That's 26 sessions, from 5 to 8 p.m., with live music and other diversions besides food trucks.

But oh, the trucks. There's more from Rochester and one from Geneseo, plus Buffalo's core of 20-odd trucks on the road at any time. Including the Black Market Food Truck, whose housemade mortadella is featured in the sandwich pictured above. (That thing comes with cheese dip. Seriously.)

But people watching their weight are welcome too. Leslie Zemsky said this year all trucks will offer a menu item approved by Independent Health Foundation nutritionists, to meet healthy guidelines for sodium, fat and calories. 

Trucks don't guarantee they'll show, because they are trucks, and things happen. But Tuesdays at Larkinville draw a good crowd, and truck operators like to make money, so most of them should be there most of the time. That said, the truck lineup includes:


Betty Crockski

Black Market Food Truck

Cheesed and Confused (Geneseo)

Cheesy Chick

Effortlessly Healthy (Rochester)

Fally Mac


Gelato Gypsy (Gelato Cart)

Great Foodini

Greek on the Street

Hello Arepa (Rochester)

Hot off the Press

House of Munch

Knight Slider

Le Petit Poutine (Rochester)

Macarollin (Rochester)

Marty’s Meats (Rochester)

Pizza Amore


Roaming Buffalo

Rolling Joe

Sweet Hearth

Sweet Melody’s (cart)

Thai Me Up

Whole Hog

Chowder Up (Rochester)






BuffaloEats: Meet Chef Jennifer Boye of Mansion on Delaware, a Nickel City Chef

Chef Jennifer Boye by Nickel City Chef

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Jennifer Boye is one of Buffalo's culinary stars, but unless you've been lucky enough to stay at the Mansion on Delaware, you probably haven't gotten to try her best work. Fans of the Nickel City Chef live cooking competition have gotten to see her moves, though.

Boye is a local success story who started her culinary career at Erie Community College. Now she attends to the private event dining needs of guests at the boutique hotel, though the public can attend the hotel's Cocktails on the Lawn events during the summer. She's also a partner in Fables Cafe, in the downtown library.

The Mansion only serves a light continental breakfast to guests, there is no room service, nor is there any sort of restaurant for guests inside. If people want to taste Jen's food they actually have to attend a private event held at the Mansion, or one of their public summertime Cocktails on the Lawn events.

BuffaloEats got her to spend a few minutes answering questions about her life in food, favorite places to eat and her hopes for the future of the Buffalo restaurant community. She's a gourmet through and through who confesses to loving the FREE NACHOS at Founding Fathers just like everybody else.

Photo: Nickel City Chef



Cantina Loco celebrates Cinco de Mayo, new patio with one-night-only tequila dinner

Cantina loco

By Andrew Z. Galarneau

Mike Andrzejewski is offering a one-night-only dinner menu and tequila tasting to celebrate Cinco de Mayo and the new expanded patio at Cantina Loco (191 Allen St.,

The chef says he'll serve octopus escabeche, sweet corn soup with smoked hen and chile cream, foie gras tostados, red snapper baked in tomato smoked pork sauce, goat barbacoa, and more.

The tequila tastings will be paired with dishes and presented by bartender Michael Galisdorfer.

It’s $69 plus tax and tip, reservations required. The number is 551-0160.

Photo: Cantina Loco


« Older Entries Newer Entries »