Okun on Food

Don't Laugh

Even after writing the column that appeared today in the Life & Arts section about formerly esoteric foods going  respectable,  I continued to get  bombarded with press releases about other off-the-wall  stuff. But, as I said in the column, you never know what will take the public fancy. Here are a few examples of what I mean:

From Kettle Foods, encouraging the public to vote for their favorite new flavor, sent samples of Orange Ginger Wasabi Potato Chips. From Choco Logo, our very own local innovative chocolate company: Dark Chocolate Wasabi Caramels with Sea Salt . (We must all stop wasabi before it kills again.)

And then there's another newbie that may well be the oxymoron of all oxymorons: Organic Chicken Nuggets. Well!

Don't get me wrong, here. I'm not really  pooh-poohing these things.  And I'm certainly not laughing at them. I'm as willing to take a chance as the next guy. My brain or palate is just  having trouble adjusting.  Undoubtedly you're having trouble with some of the  new foods too? 

Another Sad Goodbye

Don't want to overlook the closing of Billy Ogden's on William Street,  a Buffalo institution beloved by all (especially the crispy fish), which survived valiantly for several years after the sudden death  of uber  chef/owner Andy DiVincenzo. Sadly, the place locked the doors this summer.

The closing of a restaurant, especially a popular one, always hurts. But I remain  optimistic about  restaurants, especially in the city.  Many spots have opened or will soon.

Duo Forno on Franklin Street is serving now, and  Bel Cibo (which means "beautiful food") will be running by early November. It is on Elmwood at Delavan, on the site of the late Soda Bar. One of the owners, Marty Palame (also an owner of Mode at Elmwood and Utica) tells us Bel Cibo  will be an unpretentious place, open for lunch and dinner and serving  Italian-American food  like lasagna and spaghetti and meatballs. 

Another city restaurant that has been on the brink for a while is Club 31 at Elmwood and Johnson Park, but, as far as I know, there's no definite opening scheduled. Let's hear it for optimism and dreams. And good food too.

Anyone hearing of a new opening anywhere in Western New York is welcome to comment aobut it in the space below. 

Building a Better Garlic Press

Why is it do you suppose that no one can build a perfect garlic press?  Yes, I know that you can smash a clove or two with the side of the knife, but I'm lazy. And I really think I've tried every press   that's ever been created. Something is always wrong.

Last night  I tried the new one from OXO, a company that is usually totally reliable. This garlic press, very heavy to hang on to, was supposed to peel the garlic - you put the clove in the little bin with the skin still on it   - and  obviously mash it, thus doing two tasks at once. Great idea, too.

Unfortunately it failed in its execution. You need the strength of 10 men (or women) to squeeze the thing, and the little pusher thing has to be positioned just so, which is tricky. Also, it was difficult to clean. Even the old toothbrush idea, usually effective, didn't work in this case. Anyway,  the search continues. Stay tuned.

Restaurant Ruckus

As was apparent from my column in Wednesday's Life & Arts  section, restaurants are not always  peaceful places. The story I related described  a table of eight who obviously had a few. They were loud, and they annoyed -- then terrorized -- an adjacent table, whose occupants complained to the management  in vain and finally left in a hurry because they were so upset. 

To make matters worse, that management demanded that the offended ones pay the check or they'd call the cops. Seems to be a case of Blame the Victim here.

Which brings up the question of what a restaurateur should do when such a situation arises.

One reader suggests kicking the drunks out in as non-confrontational a way as possible by going to them and saying: "We have your food all packed up you." (He also suggested that they get charged for it, too.) Or, actually calling the cops  if they  become even more abusive? I guess the idea is to avoid a scene that would upset the other patrons, right?

What would you do? When you are in charge of a restaurant, it seems to require a knowledge of psychology (and maybe self defense) as well as the culinary arts. 

Going the Extra Mile

Doing a little bit more than is expected has always been a way to succeed in any business, but in the food biz it's vital. There's  a lot of competition out there and you have to stand out from the rest.

Here are three examples of working a little harder than necessary:

One won't last long, I guess, since the weather is definitely going to get cooler, but the last time we visited the gorgeous patio at La Tee Da on Allen Street, they had colorful little blankets/shawls at all the tables for the customers. Sure, the heaters were in operation, but still a diner could experience a chill.

Second, while sitting at the bar at O'Connell's American Bistro on Kenmore Avenue last week, my friend ordered vodka with a lemon twist. it came in a nice glass with a tiny whisk in it -- just the kind of whisk you'd use to beat up an egg mixture only much smaller. Cute and operational. You'd be surprised at how delighted the sophisticated people at the bar were to use this nice new toy.

And third, it's been there for a while but it should be mentioned. How nice it is in a supermarket to ask where something is and actually be escorted to the proper shelf. Wegmans does it as a matter of course and with a smile, too. I think it's a big part of the chain's success.

Anyone else have any examples to put forward?

How do really feel about Brussels sprouts?

What I've discovered this fall -- although I think I always knew it at the back of my mind -- is that there is a silent majority of  Brussels Sprouts lovers out there. Nobody will admit it!  Has ever a vegetable  been so maligned in the history of the vegetable world?  Well,  maybe broccoli, but I digress.

I know you sprout lovers are out there. I hear your whispers; I see  your wistful looks. And I also  know because I count myself among your number. It's silly to be embarrassed. I love Brussels sprouts and I'll proudly  stand up in the face of God and man and say so. I certainly would not describe them,  as a friend does, as those "poor little cabbages that never grew up."

Now's the time to buy them fresh and eat them as  often as possible.  The sprouts must not be overcooked but otherwise there's no problem preparing  them. Sprout lovers of the worlds unite!  Let's get them on the dinner tables and restaurants of America. Soon.

Special Diets in Restaurants

It was heartwarming  to note in an ad in last Friday's Gusto from the  Adam's  Rib Restaurant on Main Street in Snyder that announced  "Gluten Free"  specials every  Monday night. That's of special interest to people who suffer from celiac disease and other conditions that are caused by an allergy or intolerance to wheat and other grains like barley. Gluten is the protein substance found in them and
because wheat is so ubiquitous in the American diet,  it's a very difficult to find the right things to eat.

Fortunately, as  the condition becomes more recognized and diagnosed, more attention is paid to it. There are several cookbooks that provide alternate recipes. There are support groups. Alos, besides Adam's Rib, there are two local restaurant I know of who offer gluten-free options -- Curly's Bar & Grille in  Lackawanna and the Pizza Plant.  Pizza Plant even goes so far as to serve gluten-free beer.

What a great way to accommodate customers or potential customers. I'm wondering if there are any other dining places out there that do the same thing.

A Sad Goodbye

Many restaurants and food depots seem to be closing these days (Billy Ogden's, for one). But the one that makes me the saddest  is X-Cel Produce on Elmwood Avenue near North Street. John Darowz and his family  ran a unique institution there.

And it wasn't only the magnificent sandwiches he put together, either, though certainly that was part of it. Those sandwiches were so full of fresh ingredients you ate them slowly so as to savor every single bite.

It was also John's interest and passion for all the food things that were going on in the area that was impressive. He wasn't afraid to express that passion either along with a few other opinions, political and otherwise. Not a shy man, is John, thank goodness. That's why his store was always fun to visit. It  was loaded with personality.

Anyway, he's moving on to operate the in-house cafeteria for James Desiderio Inc., a big  wholesaler in the area. Lucky employees!

John, I miss you already.

Down with Tiramisu

When it comes to desserts, Tiramisu was once a very good idea. The Italian  classic  (the translation for which is "pick me up" ) is supposed to consist of sponge cake dipped in coffee and/or wine, layered with mascarpone and grated chocolate.

In this area, there are many many variations on the theme -- too many, perhaps. Is there any self-respecting restaurant locally that DOES NOT serve tiramisu? (Or Creme Brulee, for that matter.) Sometimes, if you hit a good idea too hard, it moves into cliche territory.

I'm starting a sort of survey here.

What restaurant dessert do you nominate to take  the place of TMS? And pull-eaz  don't mention Molten Chocolate Cake. Maybe something a little more creative like  the Orange Cake made with Guinness that I ate at the Irishman the other night (the review appeared in gusto on October 5). Or the blue cheese stuffed Bosc pear with Honey Thyme Sauce served at Carmelo's in Lewiston (reviewed on September 28). When a chef's cap turns into a thinking cap (as your first grade teacher used to say) something great can happen.

The case of the missing Martini glass

Stopping in to have a quick meal at Dandelion's in Williamsville the other night, we ordered Martinis before dinner. (It had been that kind of a day.)

The likable server came back quickly. "We have only one Martini glass," she said. "Do you mind if we serve the other Martini in a wine glass?" Bring it on, we said quickly.

And so the two drinks arrived, the second in a perfectly nice wine glass, twist and all. Now, others may quibble that part of the mystique in a Martini is the glass it is served in -that stemmed wide V shape is  pretty glamorous - but  this drink looked good and was enjoyable, too.

So consider this a vote for full disclosure. It always pays to be up front with a customer.  Don't you agree?
In the meantime,  though, maybe Dandelion's should  call its restaurant supply house ASAP.